With more and more light shed on the environmental and social ramifications of “fast fashion” and fashion production, the second-hand clothing economy is taking off.
Textiles may not be the immediate consideration when one thinks about the issues compounding climate change, however, the impact is significant. Essentially, the average consumer, influenced by the marketing of inexpensive yet trendy clothing, purchases and discards clothing at such an overly accelerated rate that the planet cannot keep up.
Photo: La Osa Jewelry & Vintage
While purchasing the season’s latest top may not seem directly related to climate change, it has significant ramifications. Quite simply: “…as pressure to reduce cost and the time it takes to get a product from design to shop floor means that environmental corners are more likely to be cut. Criticisms of fast fashion include its negative environmental impact, water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing levels of textile waste.” (The Independent: The Environmental Costs of Fast Fashion)
The impact also includes micro-plastic pollution in our waterways and the environmental cost of shipping cheap textiles to worldwide markets.
Fortunately, more and more shoppers are choosing the second-hand alternative and, as a result, there are several wonderful shopping experiences to be had in Stratford and area.
I interviewed the women behind three of my local favourites – La Osa Jewelry & Vintage, COVET The Community Closet, and Pass It On — and Anne Carbert spoke to the owners at Repetitions and Luv Scarlet.
La Osa Jewelry & Vintage
Owner: Pamela Coneybeare, 148 St. Patrick Street, Stratford, Ontario
www.laosajewelry.com, Instagram: @pamela_osa
How would you describe your store?
La Osa is a destination boutique in downtown Stratford, Ontario – home of La Osa Jewelry plus thoughtfully curated vintage and Canadian made goods. Walking into La Osa is a bit like stepping into a seventies cocktail party or gazing into your cool older sister’s pastel cosmetic case. Playful yet chic, airy and filled with beautiful, nostalgic treasures.
Photo: La OSA Jewelry & Vintage
How long has your store been in business?
One year! We just celebrated. One year as a store but prior to that I was selling jewellery and vintage clothing on the side for ten years.
I have always loved going to little thrift shops in any small town I’ve visited. I’ve had some things for more than ten years since I started collecting. Sometimes I also go to estate sales, rummage sales, people’s closets….which they usually know about!
Why do your customers shop here?
I think they like the curated selection, lots of variety but a smaller collection than some other stores. You can get an idea pretty quickly if there’s something you want to try. They like the ambience and the other unique designer lines that I carry like Lunah Life and Bully Boy lingerie and the Minnow Bathers swim line. White Feather designs is another Ontario jewellery designer that we just started carrying.
Photo: La OSA Jewelry & Vintage
Do you and they make the connection between shopping second hand and the environment? Climate change?
Yes, I definitely do. Originally it was more of a social and human rights aspect – especially ten years ago – when sweat shops and the conditions in factories overseas was beginning to be talked about. I studied sociology in University and globalization and human rights we’re really on my mind. These issues are all linked.
As for customers, about half purposely shop second hand for environmental and social reasons and do like to talk about it with me. For the other half it’s the more unique experience, higher quality, unique experience.
Have you noticed any changes in your customers? Their shopping habits?
People are being more thoughtful and careful about their purchases. They buy it because they really love it and it’s something special. They don’t buy it on a whim. Same goes for jewellery. They’re really thoughtful about their purchase which is great.
COVET Consignment – The Community Closet
Owner: Shannon Stewart, 165 Downie St, Unit D, Stratford, Ontario
www.covetconsign.com, Instagram: @covet_stratford
How would you describe your store?
We are a community recycler of clothing, a sharing closet. We set it up purposely to look like a closet. People bring us what they no longer love and take what they do love. Our motto is relove, reuse, recycle.
How long has your store been in business?
Since May 2012.
Why do your customers shop here?
We have a couple different demographics. The first is very environmentally conscious and really enthusiastic about the sharing economy. The second is financially motivated, they’re here because of economic circumstances and the amazing value. On that note, Covet offers “the good Samaritan account” that people can donate their clothes or consignment money to. If someone has a need they can choose from this account. Staff will say to them, “Someone in the community bought you these boots.”
Photo: COVET Consignment - The Community Closet
Do you and they make the connection between shopping second hand and the environment? Climate change?
I absolutely do especially in terms of water use. Water is the future war – so much goes into making new clothes. My first taste was about 15 years ago when Greenpeace started talking about it at height of fast fashion. I’ve always been a second hand shopper, in part, because I don’t want to be told how to dress.
As for customers, I’d say about 50% of our customers are really aware of that connection.
Photo: COVET Consignment - The Community Closet
Have you noticed any changes in your customers? Their shopping habits?
We’re expanding every year. There’s a difference in the tourists – we have eco-tourists who return every year, some arriving with student bus trips. Young people get it, it’s harder to convert the older generation. There’s this misconception where people think of new as ‘pristine’ when it’s actually full of chemicals.
We’re also working on website to reach more online with images of full outfits for people who are more visual and need to see it laid out. We’re trying to eliminate the overwhelm of sorting through everything for customers who struggle with it. While others love to sort through the racks and experience the thrill of the hunt.
We work on every customer to convert them to buying second hand. Even if they bring in lots of clothing but won’t shop here, we try to slowly win them over. We recently converted a very affluent woman and now Covet is her first stop. The key is our customer service.
Pass It On Store
Owner: Carey Pope, 31 Water St S., St. Marys, Ontario
www.passitonstore.com, Instagram: @passitongals
Photo: Pass It On Store
How would you describe your store?
It’s a unique social enterprise and boutique thrift store full of PreLOVED donated items.
Pass It On offers a fun mix of clothing, accessories, furniture, books, architectural salvage and snappy vintage décor, all at awesome prices. We proudly support environmental, education and youth projects for over 15 years in St.Marys and around the globe.
How long has your store been in business?
Pass It On store opened on May 8, 2004 and was off and running. My first week covered a $600 move of a Custom Pool table moved to our youth centre. Crazy but the new owners had wanted to dump in the landfill!
Photo: Pass It On Store
Why do your customers shop here?
I get a wide range of customers – locals, from Toronto, young and old. I’m told they shop here because it’s quirky merchandising, great selection and fantastic prices. Plus the best are the programs and causes I hand pick to do with the funds raised, like scholarships for girls!
Do you and they make the connection between shopping second hand and the environment? Climate change?
The environmental connection is a main focus and I remind people about it all the time. Second hand shopping is so popular because of Pinterest, etc. It makes people feel good.
Have you noticed any changes in your customers? Their shopping habits?
Shopping habits have definitely changed. People are really shopping less, replacing only what they need not want and being fussier. Donations have increased due to popular shows (Netflix) but more people are also bringing friends and family. The best part is that fewer people ask for plastic bags!
Repetitions
Owner: Emily Pedrosa, 852 Ontario Street, Stratford, Ontario
www.consignrepetitions.ca, Facebook: @consignrepetitions
How would you describe your store?
I would describe my store as friendly, inviting. We try to accommodate all sizes of women. I don’t want to discrimintate – I have zeros and plus plus. People are surprised when they come in and they see those two extremes. I try to help anybody who is having mobility problems. We want people to come in here and end up feeling good about what they buy and where it’s come from. It’s come from people in the community and it’s not adding to waste.
How long has your store been in business?
It’s been in business almost 25 years and I’ve had it for a little over 4. We don’t advertise and we deal with, I think, real women.
Why do your customers shop here?
I think for all those reasons [above]. I know the majority of people that are regulars – I know their names. They don’t have to buy something. They come in, they say hello. Sometimes they leave with numerous items and sometimes it’s like “Oh, nothing today.” But they feel free to stop in and we’re getting new items all the time. I mean, I never know every day what’s going to be coming in.
Photo: Repetitions
Do you and they make the connection between shopping second hand and the environment? Climate change?
I think a bit. First of all, I always ask if they want a bag or they need the bag. And I kind of frown on and try to give my little speall, you know. I talk to people about how it takes, I think, 30 tubs of water to make a pair of blue jeans for example. I talk about how textiles are the second largest polluter after petroleum products. When the topic comes up and, again, I think that by having a store that is well organized, is clean and neat and selective, people are impressed that they can buy things from other people. It doesn’t have to be a smelly experience and we can compete with the regular retailer.
Have you noticed any changes in your customers? Their shopping habits?
A little bit. I’m newer on the market but I did shop consignment stores way before this was the trend and I think it is the trend now. With the younger generation there are those who go “thrifting.” It’s a cool thing to do, but it’s cool but also there’s an awareness now that I don’t think was there 10 or 15 years ago, so people don’t have the same stigma.
Photo: Repetitions
And I think it also accesses people to have nice things that are affordable. Not everyone can go and buy a $900 prom dress, but they can come here and get one for $200. So I think it benefits us financially, I think it benefits us environmentally, and socially, people in the community are getting something back for their things. And if you can believe it, I had a lady call me from Chicago to see if she could bring things, so it’s people from all over that come here.
Luv Scarlet
Owners: Adam & Kendra Green, 24 Ontario Street, Stratford, Ontario & 392 Main St., Exeter, Ontario
www.luvscarlet.com, Instagram: @weluvscarlet
How would you describe your store?
We focus on luxury consignment and higher level brands and that’s our segment of the consignment world. We started sort of in the middle level and we noticed that people had a thirst for the nicer stuff at a better price and so it was a natural flow to put us where we are now.
How long has your store been in business?
Our Exeter store opened 5 years ago and we are just through 2 years in Stratford.
Why do your customers shop here?
We actually waited a long time to be in Stratford. We knew we wanted to be in Stratford. We saw there was a hole in what we did and we chose our location very carefully on Ontario Street where the throngs of theater goers like to shop. People come to our store for a variety of reasons either they are in town for the theatre or they live in town and they shop here or they are bringing stuff in. Many of the people who consign with us also shop with us and we give them an added percentage if they use their credit of consignment to shop in the store and many of them do.
Photo: Luv Scarlet
Do you and they make the connection between shopping second hand and the environment? Climate change?
I think that we talk about that a lot in the store with our clients, with our customers. Everyone talks about it in a way that at the very least they are doing their piece for the environment – that’s what we hear a lot – and the money they make from it is an added bonus. Most sensible people understand that there is a real problem with climate, with waste, and with abundance, even if they do their small part. When dealing with quality luxury items – it has more than one or two lives. It may survive three or four lives which is really fantastic. The fast fashion stuff is really a one-use situation and then to the scrap heap. So there’s no real market for it because the stuff is so inexpensive already. There’s not a price you can put on it in a thrift store. But the luxury stuff actually has good legs because it’s a quality product put together in a quality way. It has long legs and longs legs is better for the environment in terms of re-use.
Photo: Luv Scarlet
Have you noticed any changes in your customers? Their shopping habits?
When we started we didn’t hear about the environmental portion of it as much. Now we hear about it every day. So every day someone is talking about it either because they read online or it is more prevalent in the media. They think that not only are they getting a great deal but they are helping save a few trees. We do hear about it a lot. It’s grown from 5 years ago to now and it’s an every day thing in the store. Also, our stores look like they are full of brand new stuff. We merchandize it in that way. We use quality products and quality items. Many people come to our store thinking that they are buying brand new and are genuinely thrilled to know we’re consignment and they buy a lot of stuff.